27/3 - How does one describe Oslo and the country of Norway?
According to the World Happiness Report, Norway replaced Denmark at the top of the list this year, closely followed by Iceland and Switzerland. Some of the things that made these Scandinavians so happy were their caring, freedom, generosity, honesty, income, health and good governance.
It came across as a hugely progressive, futuristic city. Downtown is designed around providing footpaths for people. Vehicle and foot traffic have been separated to some extent, as the highways are a snaking system of curvy and smooth underground tunnels.
On and off ramps are spiraling underground tunnels, like an adventure ride at a theme park. Roads entering the city are subjected to an electronic toll and the air feels and tastes fresh and clear because of so many totally-electric Tesla-brand cars (a machine that sells for around 100k USD) using the streets. If someone owns an electric car, they're given free charging and parking within the city.
Compared to other cities, Oslo isn't huge; it's a little bigger than Sacramento. But its skyline features the 1952 Olympic ski jump which overlooks the city, and steeper-than-they-look mountains which surround the city.
Blond and blue-eyed locals seem to smile more here, despite the fact Oslo is one of the world's most expensive cities. According to The Telegraph newspaper, it comes in as the 11th most expensive city in the world; It was No. 1 in 2014. A half pint of beer from a local brewery costs about $10 USD. The currency is the Norwegian Kroner, and the exchange rate is about nine Kroner to one dollar.
It's so expensive because there are high taxes for many things. For example, you pay tax when taking a taxi, about $10 USD, and that's just to get in the cab. The people who earn the most money are taxed roughly 50 percent. Speeding tickets, given out when cameras on the highhway catch a driver going 10 kph over the limit, are steep and harsh, around $1,000 USD.
Because of the high taxes, Norwegians are known to cross into Sweden, which is about an hour away from Oslo, to buy in bulk because the prices are much lower. There is a large shopping center about 10 minutes across the border into Sweden, and one can see Norwegians load up large shopping carts with multiples of everything, including sugary drinks and candy.
Besides a handful of newer skyscrapers and the new opera house, Oslo is not an architecturally stunning metropolis. But what it lacks in terms of a skyline, it makes up for in practicality and stunning natural beauty.
It may just be a case of the grass is greener on the other side, but sunsets here seem to be shockingly vibrant. It's like Mother Nature approves of Oslo so much that she smiles each night and gently caresses the city and surrounding mountains with strokes of yellow, orange, red, pink and purple. People, no matter where they come from, stand transfixed by the nightly spectacle.
So, I sit here on the island of Hovedøya, by myself, with a perfect view of the city and surrounding islands. It was just a six-minute ferry ride, but I have successfully found solitude within a capital city. The sounds of traffic and construction have faded into the distance, and have been replaced by the squawks of seagulls, chirps of birds high in the trees and the dull moan of the occasional boat.
I shed my jacket, shirt, shoes and socks, rolled up the bottom of my pants and soaked up the warmth of the sun on my own little spot on this planet at this moment of time. This was my holy-shit-I'm-doing-this moment, something that was absolutely free yet invariably a moment of my own.
I meditated on this spot for 10 minutes, focusing on my breathing. I felt the warmth of the sun, listened to the birds and splashes of water. I felt the slight breeze greet my face and chest, and the hard rock against my ankle. The slightest of bluish-purple hues enveloped the world.
28/3 - The adventure on the islands of Oslofjord was one of my favorite times of the three days in Norway because it let me explore out in nature and in solitude.
After hiking around Hovedøya in total solitude and chatting with a Filipino woman named Janice, the ferry unexpectedly set off for the other islands in the chain, much to my pleasure.
The boat made six stops in all, but I decided to hop off on the island of Lindøya where I had one hour before the ferry returned. This island is home to a miniature neighborhood of red, green and yellow summer cabins. As I walked between the structures, I was struck by the apparent lack of other humans in the general vicinity. Curtains were drawn and the only sound of footsteps came from my own.
As I explored a small, private dock complete with the smallest lighthouse I've ever seen, expecting to hear a voice warning me to back away, I found a rickety garden bench at the foot of one crooked and faded dock, along with a small coffee table. I took a seat, put up my feet and had an unobstructed view of Oslofjord.
I was speechless at the sight of the setting sun and its reflection in the water, straight ahead of me. I was also amazed that I had a portion of a Scandinavian island, in early spring, with a beautiful view all to myself. I never expected to find myself in that spot, but it's funny how traveling goes sometimes.
My maiden voyage into Norway was a success, despite the fact I've once again missed my ultimate goal: the Northern Lights. I will visit Oslo in the future but the next time I will head farther north, into the icy, rugged, jaw-dropping arctic Norwegian mountains, for a chance to catch a glimpse of one of the most spectacular natural events.
Until next time.
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