Saturday, April 18, 2015

Adventures in Milan, road rage in Genoa and getting lost in the Italian hills

16/4 - I miss the simplicity of driving in the Alps of Switzerland. Even if you don't know where to go, there are just two roads to take: up and over, or under the mountain.

In Milan and the surrounding area, there are too many ways to go. It's an urban jungle! Just like yesterday, we got lost trying to get back to our hotel and out of the city. It was frustrating because both of our phones died so we couldn't go the easy way and use Google maps. We broke free of technology and figured out the way by asking random people. It took a while, but we found our way just by following signs that pointed towards individual villages at intersections or roundabouts.



There were a few times tonight when I just had to marvel at the situation again. This time wasn't exactly enjoyable, though. It was more like "wow, I'm lost as shit driving in the hills of northern Italy!" This was at midnight on windy roads in the hills that are pitch black sometimes. And other times the road leads you through a tiny village where the distance between buildings is just wide enough for you to fit your car. It's also difficult to drive in Italy because Italians love to tailgate until they're just a few feet away from your car.

As for Milan, we rented bikes and rode through the city a little bit. So after receiving so much stress from two-wheeled vehicles yesterday, we gave some of it back today. To document the experience, we each took turns wearing a Go-Pro camera on our foreheads. There was one time I almost got hit by a tram, and we battled traffic in the streets. We also had to keep a constant lookout for people who don't look for traffic when crossing the street, so we should have some good footage.

Danny has been saying Milan is the fashion capital of the world, and just walking around today I see what he means. Men are dressed in casual blazers or sport coats (I saw one person wearing trousers with the pant legs hemmed to fall about six inches above the ankle.) Women are in high fashion. I've decided if I could pick any city I've visited in which to create a new wardrobe, it would be Milan.

One of the more memorable, though brief, memories of today was the fact I was speaking Spanish to a guy from Senegal while in Italy. He did one of those things where he approaches you, ties a bracelet to your wrist and demands a Euro. I didn't have any change, so that was his fault. This happened outside of the Duomo di Milano, or Milan Cathedral in English. Outside it was impressive. It's very ornate, and I let out an audible "whoa!" when I first saw it. But after having my bag inspected by military members dressed in camouflage and stepping inside, my jaw literally dropped. This place is incredible. I got the chills and goose bumps on my arms. This cathedral is enormous. It's replaced St. Paul's Cathedral, Catedral de Barcelona and Notre Dame as my favorite church in Europe (that I've seen). While churches are normally silent, Milan Cathedral contained a buzz of voices and flashes from cameras. But that didn't take away from the sheer height of the roof or the number of stone pillars that line the hall. I'd love to go to a service in this place.


Other things we did included visiting the San Siro Stadium, home of AC Milan and FC Internazional, though it was closed, and have more pizza. This time I had one with mozzarella, ricotta cheese and a fried egg with runny yolk in the center. We also stepped into a Prada store, where there are no price tags.

Ew.

So now it's on to Genoa and then Monaco. And then from there we make the long trek back through France, across the ferry and back to Bournemouth. We've been gone for less than a week but it feels much longer than that.

18/4 - 18/4 – We’re back in France. We leave Italy with great impressions of the people and their willingness to help and friendliness…when they’re not driving. On the road Italians speed, and they flash their brights at you and expect you to move over if you’re not going 140 km/h. If you don’t, they hover on your bumper like I’ve never seen before.

Italy’s natural beauty is stunning, especially with the towns nestled in the hills near the Mediterranean. The buildings and cities look like they mesh with the environment. The motorway we took to get into France was flat and fast, as it tunnels through each hill. But I still prefer Switzerland; I guess I’m a sucker for large, imposing and rugged mountains.

Yesterday was the most testing day for us mentally. We once again had to fight traffic in Milan, all while it was raining too. But after several close calls and a few ran red lights, we made it to the motorway south of the city. From there we made our way to Genoa, which is on the Mediterranean Ocean and a massive, although beautiful, city that is constructed on the steep oceanside hills. And funnily enough, the traffic here was awful too. And since we were racing against the clock trying to find a veterinarian but failing spectacularly at it, we were becoming more and more stressed out with each other. Danny eventually had a childish meltdown, much like the one I had in Milan, and soured the next few hours. It was so bad I was worried he would get into an accident because he was losing control like the Hulk. He nearly turned green with rage. We tried asking for directions, but since neither of us are strong with Italian, the directions came out muddled most of the time.


It was so difficult to get out of that city. We missed entrances to the autostrade or went the wrong way. One moment we made a wrong turn and had to go through the toll booth again. Since I didn’t have a ticket, having already used it coming into the city, I was slapped with a heavy fine. I had to pay more than 78 Euros for that. It was extortion! Add up other tolls we racked up going into France and I spent almost 100 Euros yesterday on tolls.

This trip has been about adapting to the situation. Since neither of us have any data left on our phones, we can’t bring up a map to tell us where to go. We need to search for a wifi signal in order to bring it up. So we’re constantly on the lookout for it. And Rocky has run out of dog food. We’ve been feeding him pizza scraps, apples and other kinds of treats.

We arrived at our bed and breakfast in Nice last night after 10 p.m. It appeared closed for the night, but luckily another resident opened the door for us. I’m writing this right now not having even checked in to the place; we’re two random people using a room (to be fair we registered the night before and our names were on the door).

So from here we’d like to see Monaco, and we’re headed to Dijon. This trip is close to concluding, and honestly I’m ready to go back to Poole. This has been an epic trip, something I will always remember with pride and of which other people will be envious. But there comes a point where you’ve travelled too much and you’d like the comforts of home again. But one reason this trip has been special is the fact Danny and I have seen sides to each other not many people get to see. When you really test someone and see how they react to extremely stressful situations, another personality comes out, and it’s not often pleasant. And it’s not just the humans here; it’s Rocky too. We’re a band of calm and friendly people who have a rage monster lurking deep down inside. But looking back on yesterday, it was a funny memory and we both just have to chuckle at it at random times. 

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